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All types of Anode Replaced at very competitive prices, with experince in all types of anode replacements, we can offer independent advice on which anode is best for your boat. F.A.Q .
Q: How can I tell if I have too little (or too much) corrosion protection on my boat? A: The best way is to measure it. With a silver/silver chloride reference electrode it is relatively easy to get highly accurate voltage readings from all your underwater metals and determine if they are corroding or not. Learn more here.... Q: What are the technical differences between zinc, aluminum and magnesium anodes? A: The intrinsic characteristics of the three different anode metal alloys used in the marine environment are listed below: Anode Alloy | Voltage(1) | Density | Energy Capacity | Relative Life to Zinc | Zinc (Mil-A-18001K) | -1050mV | 0.258 lbs/in3 | 368 A-h/lb | 100% | Aluminum (Mil-A-24779SH) | -1100mV | 0.105 lbs/in3 | 1108 A-h/lb | 120% | Magnesium (Mil-A-21412) | -1600 mV | 0.063 lbs/in3 | 500 A-h/lb | 25% | (1) Galvanic voltage produced relative to a silver/silver-chloride electrode in salt water
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Q: Which anodes should I use: Zinc, Aluminum or Magnesium? A: Your choice of anodes requires consideration of three issues: - The kinds of underwater metals on your boat (e.g., stainless steel, bronze, aluminum, mild steel);
- The kinds of water you operate your boat in (e.g., salt, brackish and/or fresh); and,
- If your boat can galvanically couple to other boats around it (i.e., connected to AC shorepower without a galvanic isolator).
For vessels with AC shorepower connections and no galvanic isolation, use Chart A (pdf). For vessels with no AC shorepower connections, or AC shorepower connections with galvanic isolation, use Chart B (pdf).New layer...
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Last Updated on Wednesday, 28 January 2009 16:01 |